Pho, a Vietnamese tradition older than you might think
Pho was born at the turn of the 20th century in northern Vietnam, around Hanoi and the province of Nam Định. A popular dish originally prepared by street vendors, it became a national symbol after the reunification of the 1970s and is now served from Vietnam to New York via Paris. The recipe may look simple — beef broth, rice noodles, fresh herbs — but it actually conceals a goldsmith's work. A good pho relies on a broth clarified for several hours, spices measured to the gram, meat sliced cold and fresh herbs served on the side.
Two main schools coexist: phở bò (with beef), highly codified, and phở gà (with chicken), rarer outside Vietnam but increasingly sought after. Phở tai, a variant with rare marinated beef, is often considered the most demanding version — the meat must cook solely from the hot broth poured just before service.
How to recognise a good pho: five reliable clues
First clue: the clarity of the broth. A well-made pho comes with a golden, translucent liquid, without deposit or uniform fat film on the surface. The aromas should evoke cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, toasted ginger and grilled onions — never an industrial stock cube. Second clue: salt balance. The kitchen should not force it on the fish sauce. A properly served pho arrives barely salted; the diner adjusts with nước mắm, sriracha, hoisin and lime.
Third clue: the noodles. They should be firm yet supple, with a real bite. If they stick or become floury after three minutes, the broth lacks heat or the noodles were pre-cooked too long. Fourth clue: the meat. Beef should be thinly sliced, arriving either just cooked or completely raw — and in that case, cooking in a minute from the broth. Fibrous, grey texture betrays pre-cooked beef left out. Final clue: the herbs. A real pho comes with a platter: Thai basil, coriander, mint, bean sprouts, lime, fresh chillies — added at the last minute to preserve the aroma.
Where to eat pho in Paris 9th and nearby
The 13th arrondissement remains the undisputed reference for Parisian pho, carried by historic houses like Pho Tai, Pho 14 or Comme au Vietnam. But for a few years now, new addresses have been opening in central arrondissements, especially around the Sentier and the 9th. At the heart of Faubourg Montmartre, Phở 98 offers a chic reading of pho: broth clarified for six hours, marinated beef and fresh noodles plated in a salon inspired by early-20th-century Parisian brasseries. Our pho is also on our lunch sets, with a starter and dessert for a complete and fast midday meal.
Pho lovers can also head to Mắm From Hanoï near the Sentier, Song Heng in the 3rd, or Dong Huong in Belleville. These addresses share one point: a broth prepared every morning and fresh noodles delivered daily. For a more festive version with a chic decor, Phở 98 complements the neighbourhood's offer with its Sichuan hot pots and bobun served in the evening. To discover all our dishes, check our online menu, updated weekly via our Google Sheets system.
The 9th arrondissement, a district for gourmets
The 9th arrondissement has always been gastronomy country. The Grands Boulevards saw the birth of the first popular bouillons at the end of the 19th century, with Chartier as an emblematic figure. The covered passages — Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau, Passage des Panoramas — still concentrate tea shops, bistros and chocolatiers today. Near the Opéra Garnier and the major department stores, the district mixes local clientele, international tourists and professionals working near Richelieu-Drouot, Cadet or Pigalle.
It is in this context that Phở 98 opened at 45 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre. The house plays on contrast: outside, a discreet facade; inside, a golden salon with velvet banquettes and a crystal cascade. This staging aims to take Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine out of its usual codes (neon lights, glossy tables) and bring it closer to the Parisian brasserie experience. The 9th thus becomes, alongside the 3rd and 13th, one of the neighbourhoods where you can enjoy a Vietnamese soup in a refined setting.
Book and enjoy your pho at Phở 98
Phở 98 welcomes you 7 days a week, lunch and dinner, at 45 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (Paris 9). Reservations can be made online via our partner TheFork or by phone at +33 9 55 85 71 99. At lunch, our sets include starter + pho or starter + main + drink, from around €18. In the evening, the menu opens onto Sichuan hot pots and sharing dishes. For takeaway or delivery, find our menu on Citron 8, Deliveroo or Uber Eats.
Would you like to privatise the salon for a corporate dinner or family event? Contact our team directly through our contact page. We offer tailored formulas for groups of ten to forty guests, with a personalised menu around pho, bobun and Sichuan specialties. To discover the decor and atmosphere of the Salon before coming, feel free to browse our photo gallery. We believe that a good pho starts with a careful staging — and we designed every detail of Phở 98 with that in mind.