The nem, the first crunch.
A thin sheet of rice paper rolled over a fragrant filling, then fried until crisp: the nem opens a Vietnamese meal on a warm, golden note. Here is how we make it at Phở 98, in Paris 9e.
The nem, a starter that sets the tone
A Vietnamese table is hard to picture without nems. Served right at the start, this little fried roll sets the mood: a cuisine of textures, where crunch answers the freshness of herbs and the sweetness of a fragrant sauce.
Behind its apparent simplicity, the nem calls for precision. A well-seasoned filling, a tightly rolled rice sheet and frying at just the right temperature: everything rides on these details, which we look after bowl after bowl.
What exactly is a nem?
The nem, also known as an imperial roll, is shaped in a thin rice sheet. Inside, a chopped filling brings together meat, rice vermicelli, carrot, black mushroom and aromatics, bound just enough to stay tender.
Rolled tightly and plunged into hot oil, it comes out golden and crisp, still steaming. That crackling shell around a soft heart is the nem's whole signature.
The know-how of frying
A good nem is first a matter of temperature and timing. Oil too lukewarm soaks the sheet; too hot and it burns before the heart is warm. Our cooks watch every batch to get that even golden colour and clean crunch.
We roll our nems by hand, one by one, for a generous filling and a sheet that holds without tearing. Served piping hot, they keep their crispness from the first bite to the last.
How to enjoy a nem
Tradition has it that each nem is wrapped in a lettuce leaf with a few sprigs of mint and coriander, then dipped in a sweet-and-tangy nuoc-cham sauce. Warm, fresh and crisp meet in a single bite — that is the whole pleasure of it.
Fried nem or fresh spring roll?
The two are often mixed up, yet everything sets them apart. The nem is fried and served hot, in a golden, brittle sheet. The spring roll is eaten cold: its rice sheet stays soft and translucent, filled with shrimp, vermicelli and fresh herbs.
Two pleasures, two moments. The nem warms and crunches, the spring roll refreshes and melts. At Phở 98 they complement each other at the start of the meal, before a steaming bowl of phở or a Sichuan speciality.
Come and bite into the first nem.
Fancy starting with a crisp bite before your phở? Book a table at Phở 98, 45 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, Paris 9e, or browse the menu to plan your visit.
Your questions about nems
What is a Vietnamese nem?
The nem, or imperial roll, is a fried roll shaped in a thin rice sheet. It holds a chopped filling of meat, rice vermicelli, carrot, black mushroom and aromatics, rolled tightly then fried until golden and crisp.
What is the difference between a nem and a spring roll?
The nem is fried and eaten hot, in a golden, brittle sheet. The fresh spring roll is eaten cold, in a soft, translucent rice sheet, with no frying at all. One crunches, the other is fresh: they are two quite distinct starters.
How are nems traditionally enjoyed?
Each nem is wrapped in a lettuce leaf with mint and coriander, then dipped in a sweet-and-tangy nuoc-cham sauce. This bite brings together the warmth of the nem, the freshness of the herbs and the crunch of the sheet.
Are there different nem fillings?
Yes. The filling varies with recipes and tastes, built around meat, shrimp or vegetables, always lifted with aromatics and rice vermicelli. The spirit stays the same: a tender filling under a well-browned sheet.
Where can I eat good nems in the 9th arrondissement of Paris?
Phở 98 welcomes you at 45 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, a stone's throw from the Grands Boulevards, Cadet and Richelieu-Drouot. Nems are served as a starter, before a phở or an Asian speciality.
Can nems be ordered as takeaway?
Yes. Our starters, nems included, can be enjoyed in the restaurant or as takeaway. Online ordering is also available through our delivery partners so you can enjoy the crunch of the nem at home.